One quality of this hobby that has long held my interest is the centuries-long relationship between women and embroidery.
I have spent time researching the history and origins of embroidery and this Women’s History Month, I would love to take a moment to discuss the incredible ways in which embroidery spreads empowerment–specifically, female empowerment.
To understand the significance of contemporary embroidery, we have to first understand where it came from. So, here are the Cliff Notes:
16th Century
The earliest documented usage of embroidery was the “sampler.” A sampler was essentially a reference tool that professional embroiderers would use for their careers.
16th century sampler
This was a useful tool as it allowed the customer to see how their clothing could be embellished, but also because it was a way for stitchers to remember how to create a specific design. Something to note about the early sampler was who it was intended for. John Palsgrave’s Anglo-French dictionary from 1530 defined “sampler” as an, “exampler for a woman to work by; exemple” (V&A Museum). Note, the word woman. Remember that.
17th Century
17th century embroidery pattern
The sampler gets a facelift. It underwent a gradual transition, which moved away from the sampler as a reference tool.
Instead, needlework became a way to measure and record the achievement and the abilities of the maker. The 17th century is where a shift between quality of the makers can be seen. Where early samplers tended to be of high quality, universally, because of the professionality associated with them, this transitional period presents samplers created by a younger demographic with the introduction of embroidery to the female schooling curriculum.
18th Century
By this time, the sampler is strictly part of the female educational system. The average school girl would make at least two in her educational career: a marking sampler and a more decorative sampler.
Mary Ann Body’s sampler, dated 1789
Marking samplers taught basic stitches and the alphabet. If a young girl was lucky enough to continue her education past the elementary years, she would go on to complete her more decorative sampler. The embroidered sampler acted as a tangible representation of a woman’s eligibility, her virtue, and overall “womanliness” and respective place in society. Often, a completed sampler acted as a woman’s diploma.
Why is this important?
Now, why did I explain all of this? So we can see the progress. Something to note about the history of embroidery is that it has strong ties to femininity. Consider that early definition and think about how often the terms “domesticity” or “women’s work” are attached to this art form. It is embedded in culture and perceptions. To successfully embroider was, in a way, essentially saying “I am a woman. Look how accomplished I am, I would make a great wife. Please marry me.” It was used as a way to enforce gender roles and place for women.
Work of Sarah K Benning
Yet, contemporary embroidery has changed the art form in so many ways. A trend that I love in the embroidery world is feminist embroidery. Some successful fiber artists have used stitching to showcase feminism prose, which, when you think about it, is hilarious. Taking something that patriarchal forces have often used to enforce feminine gender roles is now being used in the opposite way. More and more women today use embroidery as a free form of expression. Embroidery is no longer just the classic counted cross stitch method. Now, there are no limits or boundaries to the skill and it is an art form that is for everybody!
It is a beautiful thing to watch this art form and the community surrounding it unfold. This is a small example of how we don’t have to let anything define us. It can be everything from a fun hobby to a tool of resistance. I know that embroidery has become really trendy lately, but don’t overlook how meaningful it is that we can stitch without limits. Women have effectively reclaimed the needle and thread that once defined them, and in doing so have reclaimed themselves. It may seem like a small victory, but I believe it is something worth celebrating and loving. So, next time you see, make, or purchase a work of embroidery, remember where we started and where we are going and I hope it makes you smile.
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